Gaspé – last stop in Québec

Most of the sail to Gaspé was smooth…except for a bit in the middle of the night when the rocking and the noises it produced woke us up. The stablizers are pretty good for side-to-side movement, but they aren’t as good when the ship is pitching.

Our excursion this morning was “Historical Gaspé Walk and Delight”; our guide Lisa had grown up in Gaspé, moved to Montreal for a 30+ year career as a dentist, and returned home during the pandemic. She was an Anglophone and had gone to English schools here, but, of course, she could also speak French when needed.

We began with a walk down Gaspé’s main street (Rue de la Reine, renamed after a visit from Queen Elizabeth in 1959); Lisa told us stories about some of the buildings on the way, but most of them weren’t very interesting photographically.

Things got better when we went down towards the river on our way to the Gaspé, Birthplace of Canada museum. The city has set up a collection of buildings and monuments in the area between the river and Rue de la Reine, and we spent a while exploring them.

Gaspé was a strategic location in World War II, protecting the St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes
Former flags of Gaspé
Monument de William Wakeham
A model three-master
A controversial artwork

Lisa said we might be lucky and see some seals in the river…and we did.

Seal in the harbor

The Birthplace of Canada is centered around a replica of the 10-metre cross that Jacques Cartier used to claim Canada for the King of France; there are also exhibits about the Mi’gmaq (the First Nations group here), commerce (a replica warehouse), and a tavern where they served us the “Delight” part of the tour.

Mi’gmaq house
Jacques Cartier cross (replica)
“Delight” from local microbreweries…and shrimp poutine

The beer was good (I even liked the IPA); they gave us a nice cheese-and-cracker plate with a bit of fruit instead of the shrimp poutine.

We had lunch on the ship, then took the shuttle to the Musée de la Gaspésie. The highlight of the visit was a short VR film about life on the famous cod fishing boat La Gaspésienne no. 20; they have the actual boat on display during the summer, but it was already covered up for the winter.

Gaspé, like all of Québec, is mostly French-speaking, and Québec law requires all signs to be in French (with English as an option). This sign is an exception, though.

I enjoyed the hour we spent in the museum.

We returned to the ship for a talk by a local expert on Forillon National Park – her photos were terrific and almost made me wish we’d taken the excursion there.

And then we were entertained by Gaspé musicians (lots of reels and jigs and other fun music) while we tasted locally-distilled gin, whiskey, and liqueurs from O’Dwyer Micro-Distillerie Gaspésienne Inc.. Michael Briand, who came up with the idea for a local distillery during an organic chemistry class, gave us the history of the alcohol industry in the area (Prohibition was very good to the locals!) and let us taste four of their [products].

Diane and I bought a couple of small bottles of the Pudding Stone Liqueur, made with candy-cap mushrooms!

We’re on the way to Charlottetown, PEI; the ship is rocking and rolling a lot, so it may be a bumpy night again.

We catch a break in the weather

We woke up this morning in Baie-Comeau, Québec and opened our windows to see the rain coming down. It kept raining throughout the morning as all of the other excursions left the ship. It was still raining when we boarded our school bus to take us to Nature Park Pointe-Aux-Outardes. But when we got to the park, the rain stopped and we had a wonderful 90-minute walk with Fred, an official park guide.

The park has nine distinct ecosystems; our walk took us into three of them, beginning with the boreal forest. Fred explained how the spruce beetle kills off old weak trees to make room for new trees to grow.

Despite appearances, this is a healthy forest.

He also pointed out many of the trees and other plants in the forest.

Juniper
Sheep Laurel – a poisonous relative of Labrador Tea

Our next ecosystem was the salt marsh. Before the park was established, the locals would ride ATVs and dune buggies on the marsh – and they still do outside the park boundary. Hunters also enjoy the marsh (outside the park, of course). Fred described the marsh as “kidneys” (unlike the forest, which is the lungs) because it purifies the water that flows into the dunes at high tide and returns to the river at low tide.

Salt Marsh
Northern Harrier over the salt marshes
Sweetgale (bog myrtle)
A storm brought this table here from Ragueneau on the other side of the river
The black spot near the center of the photo is a fox burrow, home to two adult foxes and their five kits.
Lichen after the rain
Labrador tea – it has a fuzzy underside, unlike sheep laurel

We continued on to the sand dunes.

Now we’re in the dunes
Lycopodium
A cold day for the beach!

We passed by the Fir and Spruce Forest on our way back to the visitor centre, but I didn’t take any photos there.

After being served some Labrador Tea at the visitor centre, we had a chance to walk on the beach for a few minutes before getting on the bus to return to the ship.

Ring-Billed Gull

We passed a monument to the pioneers on our way back to town, as well as the hotel that Colonel Robert McCormick (publisher of the Chicago Tribune and founder of Baie-Comeau) built for visiting executives.

Homage to the local pioneers (Monument aux pionniers)
Hotel Le Manoir Baie-Comeau (built in 1937 – the block on the right side is a recent addition)

We had a few minutes before “All Aboard!”, so I enjoyed the sunshine, the view, and the birds.

American Herring Gull taking off!
Double-Crested Comorant

The rain returned soon after we sailed away, but it didn’t last long, and Diane and I enjoyed some rainbows.

Double rainbow from our room
Double rainbow with reflection on the top deck

It started raining again, and the forecast is pretty bad for the next couple of days. The captain said that we should be able to dock at tomorrow’s port, Gaspé, but we’ll have to skip Wednesday’s stop at Îles de la Madeleine. Instead, we’ll spend a few extra hours in Gaspé and then sail directly to Charlottetown, PEI and arrive there Wednesday night instead of the planned Thursday morning arrival.

We’ll see.